On the road again: last day in Italy

As we head to the cliffs of Pesaro and another grand ocean park (this one on the Adriatic Sea), we can feel the end of our glorious trek through Tuscany, Liguria, Umbria, Marche, Emilia Romagna, and Piedmont.

The Dominican order started right here in Bologna. This 

Grand church was built for San Domenico in the 13th century after he died.

In the heart of one of Bologna's oldest and largest piazzas sits the fifth largest Catholic Church in the world.  When they began construction it was to be even larger than St. Peter's in Rome; but the then current pope diverted money instead to a monastery.  it is still the tallest, longest and widest building that I've ever been inside.  Currently undergoing massive restoration inside and out; you too can buy a numbered brick for the upper facade and join Bologna's next millennium.

Yummy local ravioli for lunch at Eataly.

A small section of the portico that travels for more than 600 arches from the outskirts of Bologna to this reddish brown, domed, porched, towering Basilica di Santa Lucia with 360 degree views of the city and farm land below.

The count welcomes you to our castle church.

Going back down; who needs a gym!

Nothing, not even big clouds and a little rain, will dampen our Italian holiday spirit. Arrivederci, Italian!

Gubbio: the most beautiful medieval town

Here a church, there a church, everywhere a church; even way up on that mountain; watch us fly!

The same incredible views everywhere from this hill town down the narrow streets and through to the valley below.

Now we fly! Up, up and away!

The now "minor Basilica" to S. Ubaldo greets us 1500 feet above the town with this simple but elegant courtyard with the cistern in the center and this view below through the outer door. Not bad for the 12th century a.d. Ask us some time what the little church contains!

S.

With magnification here, try noting the modern soccer stadium and large green below contrasted with the first century b.c. Roman forum and amphitheater. Whew!; it takes my breath away.

Remembering the apochraphal story of San Francesco and the lupo of Gubbio...

Coming back down to earth and one of our final majestic piazza views...

Yeah, we like it, uh, huh, uh, huh!

La Dolce Vita

After a deliciously late breakfast in our little two bedroom apartment, we trek up to the main house to identify and forage for herbs before cooking class begins.  Aah! That fresh fennel will do the trick.

Stuffed chicken rolls

Stuffed beef rolls

A little butter, olive oil, and tomato sauce for the cooking

Crepes to be filled with spinach and ricotta 

Rolled crepes covered in tomato sauce

After baking...

Try a little salad and wine with the first course

Tiramisu with San Francesco's tau for peace

Kicking it at the farm!

Nothing better than farm fresh eggs and squash blossoms to put in your omelette for a lazy day at the farm.

It was a lovely day in the neighborhood for a stunning walk around the area to explore.

When all of central italy was owned by the Vatican, nearly every hilltop had a small church.  We can see four from our apartment.  This one was in use until the 1980s.  Sadly today, it suffers from abandonment and neglect.  Alas!

Meet the local breed of cattle, Marchigiana.

Some lower slopes of the Apennines frame the pastoral views in every direction.

We return to the upper farm house at 8:00 p.m for our farm-fresh, yummy 4 course dinner: antipasti (local cheese, salami, pickled chiles, zucchini bread, and olives); primo piatto (tagliatelle ragu); secondo piatto (beef stew with peas); and dessert (Panna cotta with sour cherries).  All this with local wines before and after the meal, including 8 liqueur choices as exotic as artichoke, dandelion, sloe, and green walnut.

Thank you Giulia, mamma Adriana, and everyone at Locanda Valle Nuova.

Pilgrimage to Assisi

For as long as I can remember my dad has been obsessed with all things St. Francis de Assisi.  As you might imagine, going to Assisi today was kind of a big deal. We left for Assisi from Valle Nuova with the threat of rain, umbrellas in hand.  We drove over the river and through the woods and through some incredible Apennines canyons to arrive at the magical city just 90 minutes away.

We went first to Roca Maggiore, unloaded right next to the giant fort, overrun 9 times, and walked around the top of the Assisi world for several minutes before the local carabinieri ticketed our car for parking in a very illegal place way too close to this world shrine. Oh well!  

The good news was that this allowed us to get a private guided drive to the most expensive central car park in Assisi.  All that for a $28 parking ticket paid on the spot.  A short walk away led us to the Piazza Commune di Assisi where we shopped, walked, and shopped, and ate lunch in a hotel trattoria under an arch roman style.  Have I told you that there's no bad food anywhere in Italy at any price!  

The rains came; they stopped; they came back. Further walking down incredible cobblestoned walkways led us to La Chiesa di San Francesco.  Wow! Franciscan Friar Frank from Germany led us on a guided tour of all floors and rooms of this incredible church with incredible commentary about finding ways to bring St. Francis's spirit into our lives.  We reflected at his crypt; we saw frescoes by Giotto and Cimabue; we witnessed the piazza where the 13th through 15th century popes would stay when visiting Assisi with their entourages.   Our tour ended in the rain.  We were very satisfied and found a taxi to return us to the car park. 

A less adventurous ride home through Perugia ended up with us shopping for provisions at la familia and eating a pizza dinner at Shine pizzeria in Acqualanga. At last home, to sleep, to dream, perchance to greet the morrow with another fulsome heart.

**** In case any of you were wondering, Ley wrote most of today's blog post.  He has a flair for the dramatic.